There is an expression in French, ‘to have an artichoke heart’, which refers to someone who falls in love easily. Whether the chef-patron of this such-named venue in Old Amersham was aware of the reference is unknown, but your reviewer and his dining comrade were both smitten by The Artichoke.
For any restaurant – even one with a Michelin star and easily reachable from London – to be full with arriving guests at close on 2pm during midweek in November speaks to its impact. Your reviewer last visited The Artichoke a decade ago and remembered it then primarily for its service. This time around, Laurie Geer and his team upped their game. This is a full scale experience that might not seem out of place in the centre of town. Plaudits for décor (intimate and classy), food and drink (more of this below), service (especially from our sommelier) and pricing (great value).
The Artichoke’s angle emphasises localism and seasonality; a well-trodden path, for sure, but executed here with panache. All diners have to choose from either a 5 or 8-course set tasting menu at lunch, with the former priced at a very reasonable £69/head. As the dishes went on, the quality only improved. Chiltern black ale bread was a solid opener and spoke well of things to come. A pumpkin amuse bouche which followed fell a little short of the mark as far this reviewer was concerned. It was sweet and uncoordinated. At this stage, my hopes sagged a bit, but they were amply redeemed both in terms of subsequent execution and presentation. A young carrot served with ewe’s curd was a delight but the Artichoke’s piece-de-resistance was its Ibston venison. The deer was served just right and the beetroot accompaniment acted as a superb foil. It was also pleasing to drink a wonderful bottle of Priorat alongside this dish in particular. The wine list is thoughtfully composed overall. Should diners be reluctant to choose from the list, then suggested options for each dish are available by the glass and the sommelier has clearly put thought into the choices. An Armenian option and a René Barbier Montsant were both interesting choices.
Overall, a lot to like. Hopefully a decade need not elapse before my next return visit!