As most readers will surely be aware, two of your reviewer’s passions are food and books. Where better then to combine them than at The Cinnamon Club? Although the venue is currently celebrating its 20th anniversary and its founder (Vivek Singh) has become almost a household name, the sense of awe when entering the Grade Two-listed old Westminster Library never wears off. Two floors of books cover half of the available wall space. It was a nice touch too to see the bill delivered in a copy of Dickens’ Martin Chuzzlewit, perhaps appropriated from one of the shelves. In between, the food was also damn good.
The Cinnamon Club’s angle has always been one of taking Indian culinary approaches and combining them with British produce, particularly game. It was a delight to see pigeon, quail and venison (twice) feature on the menu. Diners do not lack for options, with traditional classics such as Singh’s take on tikka or Rajasthani lamb also available. Format-wise, it’s possible to go full-on tasting, a la carte or set lunch. At £30 for two courses or (£35 for three), the latter scenario has to constitute great value. Guests such as us who opt for the set menu get a choice of three items for each course. To begin, I went for the Cinnamon Club’s innovative rendering of salmon and avocado tartare, laced here with spice (particularly coriander) and topped with bhel puri. It was executed with panache, the range of flavours and textures combining elegantly. My comrade also rated her curried broccoli. Onto the mains and the obligatory venison for me; chicken for my comrade. My deer was mixed with prunes, turned into koftas and accompanied by a black dhal. This was another example of a clever and thoughtful combination, which exhibited novelty and delicacy.
Sadly, we ran out of time for desserts, but did at least get to enjoy a carafe of Mosel Riesling chosen from an intelligent wine list. It was pleasing that the sommelier has placed a strong emphasis on aromatic wines from Europe – the ideal curry pair in my view – as well as having a range of more traditional classics available too. Many wines can be bought by 125ml glass, 500ml carafe or bottle, which allows diners with time (and money) to experiment, should they wish. A longer return visit is definitely due.