A neighbourhood restaurant in Covent Garden sounds like an oxymoron. Crowds of tourists are likely to deter even the most hardened Londoner from having to visit this part of town – unless there is good reason. A trip to the 10 Cases would be one such excuse. Since its founding just over a decade ago, the restaurant has stuck to its knitting and gained a justifiably loyal set of followers.
The founders’ ethos was a simple one: create a venue where wine was accessible and could be enjoyed in a fun and unpretentious fashion. To this end, the 10 Cases does what it says. The list comprises just ten red, white, rosé, sparkling and sweet offerings, each ordered by the proprietors – you’ve guessed it – in just ten cases. When it’s gone, it’s gone. The venue claims never to have listed the same wine twice since opening its doors. Admittedly the next-door wine shop has over 300 bottles listed, from the quirky through to the classic.
Food is far from an after-thought at the 10 Cases, however. While the emphasis is again on simplicity, what is gained in brevity is not lost regarding quality. Diners choose from around half a dozen nibbles followed by just three starters and four mains. Expect seasonal produce to feature throughout, with nods primarily to mainland Europe, albeit with a touch of Ottolenghi added in. Almost every table was occupied even at the early evening hour when we arrived. The good news is that walk-ins are permitted at the next-door shop, which contains several indoor and outdoor tables and offers the same food menu.
What makes the 10 Cases feel local is two things. The staff have a wonderful attitude and appeared to greet both newbies (like your reviewer) and apparent locals with the same degree of passion. Inside, there’s a cool bar, blackboards advertising specials and a lot of wooden furniture. It’s the sort of place that might be hard to leave, particularly after a few glasses of wine. A portion of fried cod cheeks served as a perfect antidote to mop up the first round of wine. The fish flesh was juicy, the batter non-greasy and the accompanying aioli a killer offering. Among the other dishes sampled (we passed on mains owing to time constraints – a theatre visit followed), the pictured burrata, grilled runner beans, pickled girolles and seed crumble was a stand-out, looking as good as it tasted. Portion sizing was surprisingly generous, particularly given the part of London and current inflationary dynamics. The 10 Cases clearly knows what it is doing though, and long may it endure.