This is a special piece to mark a truly memorable meal. Gourmand Gunno normally restricts himself only to reviewing restaurants on his home UK turf. Top dining experiences for elsewhere can generally be found in the global section of his website.
These exact words were uttered gleefully to us by Mohammad, one of the three eponymous brothers, when your reviewer recently had the privilege to dine at their restaurant. From having only opened in 2021, Orfali Bros has already gained recognition, not only from Michelin, but also ranking in the top-50 best restaurants in the world. It’s easy to see why.
Mohammad and his siblings, Wassim and Omar, hail from Aleppo. Their decision to locate in Dubai, we were told, was deliberate. Anywhere that has a mix of cultures (as opposed to its own distinct heritage) is the perfect venue for culinary experimentation. With no pre-conceived ideas, the Orfali team can make them up. Mohammad, who devoted a generous amount of his time in talking to your reviewer and his comrade, was explicit in his view that “we don’t want to be categorised.” Sure, there is a nod to the family’s Syrian roots, but two of the brothers trained classically as French pastry chefs. This influence is evident. A brief perusal of the menu would also show nods to the cuisines of Mexico and Japan.
It's hard not to fall in love both with the enthusiasm of Mohamad as well as the venue the brothers have chosen for their restaurant. Beyond being away from the skyscrapers of downtown Dubai, it is the clever use of the space that resonates. Orfali Bros is small. It seats only 30 covers. The room, however, is tall with guests seated around a two-storey open kitchen. At ground level, an eye-watering display of pastries is on show. Above, the three brothers and their team prepare the dishes. The whole set-up makes for wonderful viewing.
The cooking is, of course, the last stage of the process at Orfali Bros. Every dish is rigorously tested and tasted. It has to receive a seal of approval from all three brothers before it can appear on the menu. Standards are high. Given that apparently half their guests work in the restaurant trade, this should not be surprising. The menu is divided into four sections: small dishes for one, cold and hot options (both for sharing) and a list of pide (think Middle Eastern pizzas). We foraged widely in the first three areas. Were space to permit, then each dish could merit a page of description, from conceptualisation through to composition and then finally the eating experience. An “umami éclair” for one is a case in point. We learned how porcini mushrooms are boiled and then emulsified to create a form of ‘marmite’ that sits inside the éclair. Cocoa nibs provide a hint of sweetness and a delicate slice of beef prosciutto atop generates a salty, fatty contrast. Your tastebuds hardly know where they’re going with each mouthful. To take another example, the olive oil caviar that accompanied a scallop serving was both a masterpiece of visual and taste experience – and quite unique too. All things sea-based were where we sensed Orfali was at its strongest, with a cold tuna salsa roja dish and a warm miso tahini salmon offering both wowing. The team also showed that keeping things simple can work, with a corn and avocado salad feeling beautifully clean and energising. Wagyu beef kebabs were perhaps the only relative letdown, not quite hitting the highs achieved elsewhere. That said, a return visit would undoubtedly be in order. Be sure to book in advance though.