The Pontcanna district of Cardiff is where it’s at when it comes to fine dining. Thomas represents a classy offering by former MasterChef star, Tom Simmons. His angle is a simple one: take classic British and French cuisine and give it a Welsh twist. Based on the quality of the output, Thomas would merit a Michelin star, but it won’t get one until it ups its service game.
When your reviewer arrived on a recent Friday after an arduous train journey from London to Wales, Thomas represented a welcome sight. Set over two floors, there was a distinct buzz. Most tables were filled. And why not? Guests can settle in and admire a venue that is both classic and stylish. The combination of wooden floors with rich and luxurious green furnishings is a winning one. Downstairs, there’s a bar and casual dining; upstairs, a more formal experience.
Our group of four ventured upstairs to enjoy Thomas’ tasting menu. After having opened a venue in London in 2017, the decision of Tom Simmons to return to Cardiff in 2020 was described as “coming home.” Back in Wales, Tom and his team have focused on fresh and local wherever possible. A nifty map on each table shows the provenance of all the kitchen’s main ingredients. Thomas does what it says, with most major suppliers being Welsh, complemented by a handful from Scotland and Cornwall. Interested new providers are encouraged (via the website) to get in touch.
Tasting at Thomas comprises six courses, with an optional extra, which we chose, for who doesn’t enjoy pork cheeks? This dish constitutes a classic case study in the art of Tom Simmons. The meat in question tasted poles apart from its beef counterpart that appears more commonly on menus. No slow cooking of meat at Thomas. Here, the pork had real bite. Artichoke provided a pleasing textural contrast, morcilla (black pudding) a decadent delight, and piccalilli a brave addition. Tom does not seem to be afraid of taking risks with novel pairings. Beetroot and blackberry proved ample foil – sour and sweet – to chicken liver parfait, although Pembrokeshire lamb loin was undermined by the addition of a salsa verde. Cornish Brill (pictured) proved to be the consensus dish of the night, an artful composition of flavours. Smoked butter sauce elevated this dish.
With so much to like, it was a pity that the fluency of the service did not match that of the cooking. Staff generally seemed more to be going through the motions rather than demonstrating genuine enthusiasm. It was also hard to overlook some of their lapses. There was an absence of cutlery for several courses. Others saw mismatched cutlery. Stemware was not always clean, based on how the wine appeared in certain glasses. Some finished dishes resided on the table for too long. Our water glasses were not topped up and we had almost to beg for more. The good news is that all these problems should easily be fixable. Thomas can then think about reaching for the stars.