Mayfair does not lack for high-end restaurants, but 20 Berkeley pulls of the act of creating something totally novel. Think of it as a breath of fresh air relative to the style over substance vibe of nearby Amazonico, Bacchanalia, Novikov or Sexy Fish. There’s nothing showy or ostentatious about 20 Berkeley. Rather, it wears its class with subtlety; understated charm rather than self-conscious bling. It’s very British, and in being so, fills a gap in the market.
British fine dining is not – and should not – be considered an oxymoron. As the rolling video on 20 Berkeley’s website shows visitors, the country is replete with stunning shorelines, rolling hills, expansive moors and bucolic farms. Given the growing emphasis on local, seasonal and sustainable, 20 Berkeley can comfortably tick these boxes. With the kitchen run by Ben Orpwood (ex-Gordon Ramsey) and the venue bankrolled by the Creative Restaurant Group (Endo, Humo etc), you know you will be in good hands. Don’t expect sushi or sashimi here – just heads to any neighbouring venue if you want something so predictable. Rather, it’s cod from Cornwall or cow from Cumbria. Even the crab comes from Portland (Dorset, that is, not Oregon).
First things first. Diners get to relax in a spacious and plant-decked dining room, full of natural light. The furnishings are olive green and the wood dark. There’s not a brick wall or exposed beam in sight. It’s a country club rather than nightclub vibe at 20 Berkeley; rather genteel, but with a sense of knowing playfulness. There’s even a downstairs bar for potential bad behaviour. Upstairs, it’s just refined dining. We were greeted with a fold-out origami menu, a nice (and original) touch. There are around a dozen starters and mains from which to choose, but before, it’s obligatory – and your reviewer does not use this word lightly – to try the bread. Used as a failsafe test to gauge the quality of most venues, 20 Berkeley comes up trumps. Their offering was a superb sourdough augmented by some of the best olive oil tasted in some time. Onto the starters. Your reviewer opted for trout, his comrade for scallop. While the former was a masterpiece in terms of presentation, it tasted rather bland. Maybe it was a poor choice – although one might, justifiably, expect to be satisfied with every option available. Nonetheless, 20 Berkeley amply redeemed itself with the black pudding tortellini and sorrel velouté that accompanied the scallop. The power packed into one piece of pasta was immense. Mains pleased, both in terms of aesthetics and taste – one portion of lamb and another of squid. Even if we were not absolutely wowed, the convivial vibe, ever helpful staff and a very good bottle of Bruno Giacosa Barbera (chosen from a list where there are some great – and mispriced – options, if you know where to look) all made for the occasion. Desserts did require some pondering. While New Forest Gateau – a playful interpretation of the German classic – was a distinct possibility, we opted to share a tarte tatin. My comrade asserted his homemade version was superior. For me, the Maison Francois iteration remains the one to beat. 20 Berkeley has huge potential. With only three months of opening, it’s onto a good thing. Up the culinary game one notch, and the venue could become a London classic.