Ask most people to put Myanmar on a map and they would probably struggle. Try and name a Burmese dish? Well, that’s a much bigger challenge. Fortunately, for the culinarily curious, Lahpet provides a perfect introduction to the country’s cooking. Both its founders have Burmese heritage. They are intent on bringing Burma (as they choose to refer to it) to the masses. What began as a Hackney concept in 2017 now comprises two restaurant venues, in Covent Garden and Shoreditch. There deserve to be more.
For the uninitiated (your reviewer included), lahpet refers to a Myanmar traditional fermented tea leaf. It has a long history in the country’s culture. In ancient times, the leaves were also used as a peace symbol or offering between warring kingdoms. It is one of the many gems that can be found on the menu at Lahpet. There is a strong general emphasis on fermentation. Tamarind also features heavily too. Fortunately, it is a substance much beloved by your reviewer, imparting a sweet-sour flavour to dishes. Think of it as being a caramel or date sweetness crossed with a citrus zing. It adds depth and texture. It can also make dishes look very brown.
Navigating the menu at Lahpet does take time, with a selection of fritters, salads, noodle bowls and mains available. Servers did seem well-informed and were only too happy to offer recommendations both to our table and others nearby, albeit with a slight emphasis on up-sell. While deliberating, it’s also fun to take in the vibe. The décor inside is modern-neutral (think light Scandi pine, high stools and ample greenery), but the outside tables provide for great people watching. Although situated right in the heart of Covent Garden, The Yards – Lahpet’s home – is far from some of the madding crowds and has the potential to become a culinary quarter in its own right.
Dinner began with sweetcorn and shallot fritters. Looking like small energy bars, they were packed with flavour intensity. The accompanying tamarind dip provided superb enhancement and served as a foil to the depth of the fritters. A braised mutton curry was similarly brown and, yes, tamarind did feature again. Regardless, it was superb. The lamb had clearly been slow cooked to a state of tenderness and the spice sensation was subtle. The flavours tingled and lingered. Tea leaf salad will definitely be on the list for the next visit – although beware the quantity of caffeine in this dish should sleep be on the agenda. Cocktails are, apparently, excellent too. Consider Lahpet not just as a pre-theatre venue – per this occasion – but clearly as somewhere to which it would be well worth devoting a full evening.