Brits have a well-known love for both curry and Chinese cuisine. What happens then, when you mix the two? India and China share a border and so some crossover must be inevitable. There has also been a long history of migration, with the Hakka of Canton having moved to Kolkata, bringing along with them many of their cooking techniques. It is this vein that Fatt Pundit happily taps into. Others should follow.
Since opening just before the pandemic, the venue has established a cult following. A second branch in Covent Garden has succeeded the Soho original. Booking at both is highly advised. Your reviewer and his dining comrade descended on the Berwick Street outlet on a recent midweek evening. Every table was taken. Hopeful walk-ins were being turned away. With décor kept to a minimum, food is the main draw. That said, we were also impressed how the servers kept their composure and good humour despite being rushed off their feet.
In terms of what to expect, imagine traditional Chinese dishes such as dim-sum, noodles and stir-fries. Then add local Indian ingredients, especially spice. The result: a harmonious mash-up that works. There is an inherent playfulness in everything behind this venue, with a major clue deriving from its name. ‘Fatt’ is a common Chinese surname, married here with ‘Pundit’, the Indian word for scholar. Guests learn through what they eat.
We were advised to order four or five dishes between us (everything is for sharing), but being of a hungry and curious nature, our total came to seven. This provided the opportunity to taste broadly across the menu. We opted for three vegetable choices, two pescine and two meat. Although of varied texture, there was a commonality across our dishes of heat intensity from the spices. Fatt Pundit is not for the faint-hearted. Your reviewer would assert that the seafood dishes won out. Bombay Prawns accompanied by mixed peppers, were fat, juicy and zesty. Beyond the chilli there was an ample whack of Szechuan pepper. A similar approach was employed in a deftly executed soft-shell crab offering. Elsewhere, a venison option and a separate cauliflower one both pleased; rabbit wontons and spinach less so. Wash it all down with a beer or a cocktail (or both) and guests will leave happy. The one caveat: lots of small dishes can see the bill add up quickly, but rest assured, it’s worthwhile.