It is hard not to fall in love with the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, a landmark of Gothic Revival and High Victorian architecture. First opened in 1873 as the Midland Grand, the hotel received a new lease of life in 2011. The main dining room – now in its second iteration since the hotel’s reopening – is worth a visit, both for the décor and the food, even if atmosphere is a bit harder to come by.
The room, just to the left of the main hotel, is a marvel to behold. The whole venue is Grade-1 listed but within the dining space, no expense has been spared. Think marble columns extending to the ceiling, ornate plasterwork, gilt in the cornices and some enormous art deco chandeliers. This is refined opulence and bling. And then some. Your reviewer was reminded somewhat of The Lecture Room & Library at Sketch, another much-loved haunt. This is a place to luxuriate among the well-spaced tables and in their large accompanying chairs. The only problem – at least for those seeking something of an atmosphere – was that there was almost no-one to appreciate it. On a Friday night, the room was barely half full and reports your reviewer has heard from others visiting at different times would corroborate this view.
An absence of customers seems curious given the pedigree of the culinary team (ex-Chiltern Firehouse) and the reasonable pricing by central London standards. There is also the convenience of being right by St Pancras station. Given this context, it is perhaps not surprising that the menu shows a clear nod both to French and to British culinary influences. Coming from Paris, you could just hop in here and imagine almost being back in France.
This was something of a sore point for your reviewer’s vegetarian dining comrade who noted the lack of vegetarian options – pas une grande surprise dans la cuisine Francaise – at the Midland Grand. A champagne risotto was good enough, but far from original or outstanding. At least the comté gougères appetisers were highly satisfying, if not quite as good as the ones made by the kitchen at 67 Pall Mall. For your reviewer, the menu was an inquisitive gastrophile’s delight. The option of snails served with a Pomme Paillasson (posh hash-brown) and topped with an ‘nduja kick may have been a curious sight to behold – as the picture attests – but was an exuberant exhibition of fatty, umami delight. It was utterly original too. A main of hake served with soft polenta and salsa verde was, again, presented unconventionally (and sufficiently unattractively that it did not merit a photo) but surpassed palate expectations, combining elegantly flavours and textures. This was one of the best renderings of polenta enjoyed recently.
Beyond the above dishes, there is a range of more conventional offerings taking in oysters, Caesar salad, Dover sole and duck à l’orange too. Pricing throughout is fair, with starters averaging £10-20 and mains roughly double. The wine list also deserves consideration with a thoughtful combination of classics and more off the beaten track options. Our Sommelier tried his hardest, as did the other staff too. We were offered a gratis sample of Canadian ice wine, perhaps in a bid to make us stay as other tables were emptying. Even in a stunning venue and with impressive food, un peu d’ambience is needed to make the Midland Grand truly a classic.