This is a special post to mark a truly memorable meal. Gourmand Gunno normally restricts himself only to reviewing restaurants on his home UK turf. Top dining tips for elsewhere can generally be found in the global section of the website.
Legend, simply, would be the word to describe Dominque Crenn, the eponym behind this venue and its neighbouring Atelier Crenn. For those unfamiliar, she was the first female chef in the US to gain three Michelin Stars and currently commands a total of four. For those without the reservation skills or budget for her main restaurant, Bar Crenn – the one Star holder – is far from shabby.
Step across the threshold and you are immediately cossetted by class and warmth. The first thing visitors notice would be the shelves of vinyl and a proper old school record player. All staff members are apparently trained to operate the system. Over the evening spent at Bar Crenn, a range of mellow soul and funk classics graced the room. Sit back and listen. Relax into a comfy chair or sofa, our pull up a seat at the bar. Guests can watch the action unfold. Dominique’s philosophy is ‘food as poetry’ – it has to speak to diners. There’s a strong emphasis on aesthetics, but this is married with taste and performance. Each member of the team knows their role in the set piece. Walk towards the back of Bar Crenn and you can see the kitchen, which adjoins its larger neighbour. Some evenings Dominique is said to come out and speak with guests.
Sadly we were not graced with her presence, but this made no difference. The experience was still superlative. Whereas at Atelier Crenn, only a tasting menu is available, at Bar Crenn, a handful of dishes are on offer a la carte. There is a strong emphasis on all things from the sea, but meat and vegetables do feature too. An opening of scallop carpaccio – apparently their current most popular dish – tells you everything you need to know. As the photo attests, this was a masterpiece of presentation. It was backed though, by substance. You could feel as if you were tasting the sea; a wonderful salty, umami tang, relieved by hazelnuts and citrus. Next up, a mackerel offering, charred just on one side, was a spectrum of flavours and textures. The hits continued.
Drinks too play a critical role as one might expect in any venue with the word bar in its name. An extensive cocktail list allows for the bartenders to display their skills to the fullest too. An innovative take on the classic negroni – with mezcal rather than gin and a coffee flourish – was a stand-out. A perfect way to end a meal too. Diners are left smiling. All the more so since pricing is highly reasonable, particularly in the context of such quality. The bill need not come to more than US$100/head. For this experience, it’s worth every penny.