In an alternative world, imagine the London dining scene without JKS. The restaurant chain developed by the Sethi siblings has gifted the city with the likes of Gymkhana, Trishna, Brigadiers, BiBi, Hoppers and more. Diners’ knowledge of the cuisine of the Indian subcontinent would be much the poorer without their outlets. Despite its pretentious name, Ambassadors Clubhouse is a valuable addition to their suite of restaurants. In many ways, it represents the JKS team going back to its roots.
The grandfather of the Sethi’s was indeed a bona fide Ambassador. His embassy sat in the Punjabi region and the London restaurant now named in honour of his station takes its culinary cues from both India and Pakistan. There are no British or French ‘influences’ here, just very good, solid, old-fashioned cooking – albeit with Mayfair prices to boot. Dishes are slow cooked in woks, meats are char-grilled and there are off-piste meats available such as rabbit and guinea fowl (the latter was apparently a favourite of Genghis Khan).
Diners might initially be confused with the menu, a large A3 card with few clues as to what it might be appropriate to order. Fear not, a somewhat too assiduous serving team was on hand to answer any questions (or, less charitably, provide lengthy explanations). My dining comrade and I did feel slightly pressured to order and our conversation was further interrupted by the sommelier, who was similarly keen if also somewhat misguided. Later, of course, when we wanted our wine glasses topped up, staff seemed curiously absent.
Putting these niggles to one side, it is hard not to be impressed by the Clubhouse. If any team can make something of the old Momo venue, then it would be JKS. Similar to their model developed elsewhere, Ambassadors is full of glitz, glamour and decadence. Mirrored walls ensure that even guests facing inwards are not short-changed. Onto the food, and this is where the restaurant really gets talking. It is as rare as it is pleasurable to see each dish brought to the table succeed the prior, both in terms of taste and presentation. Palates tingled tantalisingly with judicious spicing; the meats were deeply earthy, intense and flavoursome; while a good dollop of ghee and cream comforts everyone.
Stand-out, perhaps, were the venue’s famous lamb chops, pictured. These were a masterpiece; rich, juicy, decadent and oh-so-very moreish. Cynics may argue that at £69 for a trio they ought to be good. The bill did indeed rack up (helped along by well-made G&Ts and a superb bottle of South African wine by Pieter Walser), but by standards no worse than other comparable venues. Diners should note that tasting menus and pre-theatre dining options are also available. Everyone should make their way to the Clubhouse.