If you want some of the finest fresh fish in London, then look no further than Wright Brothers. The eponymous siblings began life in Cornwall. Their empire has expanded from fishermen to wholesalers to restrauters. Your reviewer lamented the closure of the group’s Soho branch, but it was a delight to visit the group’s original dining outlet in Borough Market recently. Everything is as it should be.
Cross the threshold and you both smell the fish and feel the buzz of the venue. The restaurant is small yet perfectly formed, arguably like the oysters they serve. There is a bar with stools and countertop dining. Elsewhere, guests pitch up at high tables, often which may be shared with strangers. An open kitchen at the back is where the action occurs. Think intimacy and intensity, with a vibe that works. Service is efficient and hands-off. It is a well-oiled operation, where guests get to sit back and enjoy.
Enjoy we did. Oysters were obligatory to kick things off. It is hard to describe how joyful is their briny tang to the uninitiated, lifted, naturally, with a dash of citrus and chilli. Our trio from Carlingford (Ireland), Cumbrae (Scotland) and Royal Bay (Jersey) allowed for a wonderful comparative tasting. Your reviewer favoured the Irish variant for their creamier texture. On beyond oysters we went with crab croquettes, beautiful Brixham scallops and a pot of steaming mussels. Even if mussels do not float this reviewer’s boat, they were devoured by my dining comrades. Scallops were hardly a letdown, however. Not only did they look great – check the picture – by they tasted superb too. The chorizo addition added a wonderful tempo shift in taste.
One of the other joys of dining at Wright Brothers is their daily changing selection of specials. Guests get to gaze at a blackboard brought to the table. Options available when we visited included whitebait, cod cheeks on bone marrow (dish of the night for us) and halibut with avocado sauce. A shout-out too for the venue’s wine list. The selection comprised ample fizz and white options aimed to pair perfectly with the food. We were delighted with our crisp South African Chenin Blanc made by the talented Kiara Scott.
Word to the wise: your bill will add up. Lots of small dishes plus a couple of bottles of wine leaves guests with very little change from £100. But rest assured, it is money well spent.