Every self-respecting London gastrophile loves Dishoom. From the original Covent Garden branch that opened over 15 years ago, the group has now expanded to 11 outlets. Their cookbook adorns many a kitchen, your reviewer’s included. Sometimes he dreams about their black daal, and occasionally attempts to re-create it. If Dishoom made a bang at its inception (for that’s what the word means, per a popular Mumbai comic strip), then Permit Room is its worthy younger sibling.
Located in a former Victorian pub on Notting Hill’s Portobello Road, Permit Room begins from the same principle as Dishoom. There is a very clear nod to the Mumbai origins of the founders; an attempt to recreate the vibe and aesthetic of the city in its golden age, looking both backwards to the time of British influence and forwards to its confident reinvention as a modern metropolis. Think of Permit Room as cool post-colonial crossover with 21st century London. Where else could you eat a “damn good breakfast” (words lifted from the venue’s website) comprising a naan bacon roll?
Sadly your reviewer and his dining comrade did not arrive in time for breakfast on a recent weekend morning, but little did this matter. Permit Room is quite explicitly an all-day venue. There are even rooms upstairs, should guests wish to sleep off their curries. The restaurant – spread over two floors (word to the wise, upstairs is calmer) – was packed on our arrival and remained so throughout.
The menu comprises some nods to the venue’s Dishoom parentage. Beyond black daal, the famous ‘ruby murray’ (rhyming slang for curry – in this case chicken tikka masala – for the uninitiated) and lamb chops also feature. However, much is new too, particularly for diners such as ourselves who might be keen to snack or graze. Chilli, cheesy, garlic naan bites represent a heavenly dish. This is comfort food at its best: give me cheddar and chilli and I will be very happy. Spinach chaat and garlic pepper prawns were both also excellent. Similar to Dishoom, expect everything to be made to a high standard – as well as being rich, decadent and ever so moreish. Whether it’s good for your arteries might, of course, be a different matter. Regardless, this is a venue where you could easily arrive for breakfast and depart post-dinner.