These three adjectives are the first thing diners see when they walk into Liu Xiaomian. They are projected in red neon on the back wall. No surprises then in terms of what to expect. The fiery sensations linger long after visiting and it will only be a matter of time before a return trip. We were told that Liu was addictive after all.
Think of Kingly Court as being the ultimate Darwinian dining destination. Spread across three floors, outlets come and go. Some to bigger things, others into obscurity. If you make it here, then you can make it anywhere. The co-founders of Liu Xiaomian cut their teeth of a market stall and then graduated to a pop-up in a Marylebone pub before choosing Carnaby Street for their first permanent location. Two years on from opening, Liu continues to pack the crowds, and for good reason. A second outlet is now open, in Charing Cross.
For the unaware, Xiaomian simply means a form of plain noodle, often associated with the Chongqing province of southwest China, from where both its founders hail. Not without good reason, it is often referred to as the spice capital of China. Close to Sichuan of mouth-numbing pepper fame, the key to Liu Xiaomian’s success lies in its homemade chilli oil. The recipe is a secret.
The oil features in all the dishes. Liu Xiaomian specialises in noodle bowls, slurp and sizzle being the angle. It is, apparently, obligatory to try the restaurant’s wontons too. Made from pork, these are billed on the menu as being ‘numbing.’ My dining comrade and I partook. Our dish, pictured, did what it said. The flavourings and spice were more than manageable. The helpful server said opt for medium spice intensity, a wise call (mild and hot preferences can be catered for too). Noodle bowls come in a range of flavours. Your reviewer bravely opted for the spicy pig’s trotter option – when in Chongqing, or even Carnaby. And no regrets. My dining comrade selected the somewhat safer spicy beef bowl. There is even a vegan option too. Word to the wise, pick some sides too, as much as anything for contrast and to relieve the intensity. Both aubergine and cucumber salad work as pleasing foils.
At less than £30/head all-in (admittedly we passed on alcohol), Liu Xiaomian is great value for money. An even better deal would be their set lunch menu, at just £18. Seating is on benches, but it hardly matters. Look outwards and there is excellent people watching across Kingly Court. Face the other way and you will be reminded just how spicy, numbing and addictive is the experience.