JKS don’t do bad restaurants. Slowly but surely the group seem to be taking over the London dining scene. Not content with a swathe of successful Indian restaurants, their Persian franchise is seeking to hit the big time, with its third venue. Beyond the Soho original and a Borough market outlet, the newest opening sits right in the heart of swanky Mayfair. It has all the ingredients for an enduring success.
Walk through the door and you’re in familiar territory. Eating at a JKS venue is not just about the food, it’s about the experience and particularly the design aesthetic. No expense has been spared. The venue reeks of opulence, in a good way. Split over two levels, upstairs has lush green banquettes, while downstairs is a more intimate space. Guests on the lower level – where we sat – get to watch the chefs ply their trade, while also being able to marvel at the ceiling panelling, which evokes Arabian Nights.
Berenjak is the name given to crunchy rice snacks that are apparently popular at Persian funfairs. The idea behind the restaurant franchise is to evoke a sense of nostalgia, a time of (relative) innocence and glamour, which is sadly absent from the region currently. Guests are urged to begin with dips to share. Accompanying these come a stone-baked seeded flatbread. It is deeply comforting, the sort of thing one could comfortably consume a full basket of, and then feel very happy. We particularly enjoyed the coal-smoked aubergine dip, topped with whey and fried onions. Six of the eight dips are veggie, which serve as a nice foil to the meatier mains.
The Soho Berenjak outlet became renowned for its kebabs. These still feature on the menu – and our lamb was deeply pungent and smoky; a must-order – but in Mayfair, a wider range of dishes feature. Guests can enjoy the likes of stews (we opted for an excellent ox cheek bowl, augmented by a tangy bitter black lime) as well as larger options such as lamb chops, a whole poussin, or seabass. Almost everything – many of the veggie sides too – is grilled, so expect a charcoal crunch across courses. Our accompanying glass of Musar wine washed things down excellently. Many other interesting options feature on the wine list.
While your reviewer would happily return to Berenjak, not all was perfect. To be generous, the venue has only been open for just over a month, so teething problems are normal, but service was generally indifferent, bordering on the lacklustre at times. The downstairs tables are very cramped and noise levels can ramp up easily. This is perhaps a place to party. Mayfair has more than enough other venues for more formal business lunches.