There’s a certain magnetic magic about rooftop dining spots in London. Views, people-watching and the chance to get a tan are all ticks for this reviewer. Forza Wine is where the cool kids hang out, whether in Soho, on the South Bank or down in Peckham. At the venue perched atop the brutalist National Theatre, the vibe is less about the stage and more about the show.
Forza (Italian for strength or power) has built a reputation across its mini-empire for a winning combination of novel – often natural – wines and small sharing plates. It fits with the zeitgeist: virtue signalling via sensible choices, while having fun. At the National, there’s a captive crowd from the shows below plus others who just want to come for the vibe. In inclement weather, there’s a funky retro-modernist interior where empty bottles of wine snake elegantly around the banquettes.
With so much in Forza’s favour, it’s impressive just what the venue can get away with. Of the five dishes our trio consumed, only two could be considered truly good, with one disappointing. Service too was sloppy, with staff somehow never around when you needed them. Neither though seemed to matter too much, when you’re in the sun and enjoying good wine and conversation. Consider it a remarkable sleight of hand.
There’s no faulting the wine, with Forza serving up an always interesting list. We opted for a cool Italian blend of Pinot Bianco and Riesling from the Veneto region. There’s something for everyone – from colour (orange included) through to price point. Maybe the clue is in the venue’s name: it over-indexes on wine, with food almost as an after-thought.
Plaudits to Forza for its veggie-friendly bias. Seven of the eleven options on its all-day list contained neither meat nor fish. We tried a quartet of these plus a plate of fritto misto, one of the venue’s hits. Word to the wise: beware the upsell. Our server suggested two-to-three plates per person. Five plus bread was more than ample for our group.
Were venues to be judged by bread alone, then Forza would show strongly. It was light and fluffy yet showed a pleasing texture. It also proved a useful accompaniment to help absorb our burrata offering as well as the excellent ajo blanco (an Andalusian almond, garlic and oil dressing) served with courgette. The latter was a stand-out. It also stood as a marked contrast to an aubergine caponata which felt distinctly out of balance.
Time did not permit us to try any of Forza’s desserts, including the curiously trademarked ‘Custardo.’ The mind only boggles. Maybe next time, assuming the sun is shining and our expectations are not set too high.