Everyone needs a Marcella in their lives. Or, at least a good local restaurant. Keep it simple yet do it well is the mantra applied successfully at Marcella, which combines the best of seasonal Italian and British seasonal produce.
The eponymous Marcella (whom we sadly did not meet) was born in Italy, then moved to New York, where she started to give cooking lessons with her son. This is restaurant is his homage to her. It’s located in Deptford and brings some much-needed class to this district of London, which has been up-and-coming for a very long time. Marcella could fit in comfortably in almost any London district. It shares certain similarities with Kilburn’s Ida, visited in June.
Walk into Marcella and you get the sense of light and space. The aesthetic is one of simplicity, with two-tone décor, clean lines and a large open kitchen at the back. Sit down, then, and let the chefs do the talking. Much of the produce – from pasta to sauces – is homemade (another similarity with Ida) and the menu changes daily.
If tyranny of choice is a problem, then come to Marcella, where there are just a handful of starters, pastas, mains and desserts to choose from. Our quartet roved across the menu and enjoyed almost everything. One opener of honeydew melon with prosciutto was a case in point about quality and provenance of ingredients. This was a masterclass in pairing sweet and fat. Another starter of peppers and smoked cod’s roe (pictured) was, arguably, even better – another thoughtful combination with both piquancy and decadence. Long ribbon pasta with short rib ragu was a wonderfully comforting main, the sort of dish one could happily eat daily, even in the peak of summer.
Were there a let-down, then it was the desserts. Your author has had recent mixed experiences with tiramisu, from the excellent to the disappointing. It ought not to be that hard to screw up this Italian classic. Macella’s promised much, and aesthetically was perfect in appearance, not over engineered. However, the sponge was sub-standard, undermining the overall impression.
Tiramisu alone would not be enough to prevent a return visit. Marcella deserves additional plaudits for its thoughtful an all-Italian wine list. We enjoyed our Sicilian white, so much so that we had a second bottle. Even better, neither food nor wine will break the bank. Expect to pay no more than £50/head.