‘Beef and liberty’ is a very English idea (see William Hogarth’s painterly interpretation). It appears too in the logo of Hawksmoor, the successful steak chain that seems to go from strength to strength. The latest outpost of its London empire – the group has also started to conquer the rest of the country plus America and Ireland too – opened recently in the Renaissance Hotel at St Pancras. It’s very good.
Gilbert Scott’s architectural masterpiece deserves a strong restaurant. The prior chef in residence of this neo-Gothic palace did a superb job with the food but failed to create any atmosphere. Hawksmoor succeeds at both. The group has a knack of finding venues in iconic locations, kitting them out well and packing them with people. Beyond the beef and liberty logo that adorns the left wall as guests enter the main dining room, the floor has been replaced (beautiful parquet now) and the old fittings changed. Guests familiar with other Hawksmoor locations will feel instantly at home.
Part of the charm of any Hawksmoor – and your reviewer has now visited six of their eight London locations – is that there has been no let up in either the quality of the food or the experience – despite the group now being twenty years old. Expect top notch steaks, lots of appropriate trimmings, a curated wine list and even some vegetarian options.
How does Hawksmoor do it? The meat remains meticulously sourced, with an emphasis on rare and native breeds across both the UK and Ireland. A range of cuts is, of course, available. Our medium-rare chateaubriand was a masterclass in preparation, with superb salting and cooked to just the right level. Prior to Hawksmoor, the notion of pairing mac and cheese with beef would never have occurred to this reviewer. Now, it’s a must-have. Add in some bone marrow – surely the pinnacle of decadence when it comes to steak accompaniments – plus some greens, and you have one version of culinary heaven. Vegetarians need not feel left out, with two starters (one pictured, instead of yet another steak) and two mains available.
If one were to quibble, then it would be over service. Staff were enthusiastic, but it was hard to get their attention on occasions and waits for certain items seemed out of sync. Things ended on a high with a gratis bonus birthday dessert brought out for the teenagers accompanying your reviewer. Another generation of avid diners could already be in the making.