It is very rare for any restaurant to gain a Michelin star within less than a year of opening. It’s even rarer in Cardiff. Tom Waters and his team have, however, done so – at Gorse. The Welsh capital now has its first starred venue. The recognition is deserved, as a recent visit confirmed.
In the culinary desert that is Paddington Basin, Ayllu offers a rare bright spot. Even if not quite yet the finished product, the venue is on the right track. The premise of ‘affordable fine dining’ – the restaurant’s self-defined pitch – is a laudable one. Go, if not for the food and service, then certainly for the atmosphere
A visit to La Rei Natura was one of the most memorable your author has experienced anywhere recently. Sure, truffle was in abundance, but chef Michelangelo Mammoliti showcased a master class in daring to be different. His restaurant’s two Michelin stars were richly deserved. At the age of 40, he may not be at the peak of his culinary excellence yet – and a third star could be imminent.
Anyone who eats out regularly will know that after a while all meals begin to merge into one. It takes something truly astonishing to be memorable. The suckling pig cooked by Nieves Barragán at Sabor is one of those dishes. Your reviewer still dreams of it regularly. It was therefore with excitement that he visited the chef’s second restaurant. However, if Legado is intended as Barragán’s ‘legacy’ (the word translated from Spanish), then it is a disappointing one.
In a world where dining is so often about the next hot trend, experiments with fusion and Insta-friendliness, it’s a reassuring thing of beauty to find a classic French brasserie. Located in a leafy Oxford suburb, Pompette is the sort of place where you could happily go for lunch and never leave. This is perhaps the aim of the owners, since translated, the name means ‘tipsy.’ Crack on with the wine and leave happy.
Just moments from Cardiff’s Principality Stadium, central train station and main shopping street, diners can imagine themselves transported to Spain. Parador 44 is a wonderfully conceived venture, set up by an enterprising couple of brothers. Visitors can sip sherry, eat top Basque-influenced nosh and then sleep upstairs in a handful of boutique hotel rooms. There is every reason to do all three.
The Pontcanna district of Cardiff is where it’s at when it comes to fine dining. Thomas represents a classy offering by former MasterChef star, Tom Simmons. His angle is a simple one: take classic British and French cuisine and give it a Welsh twist. Based on the quality of the output, Thomas would merit a Michelin star, but it won’t get one until it ups its service game.
