If eating out were like competitive sport, then it is certainly a statement of intent on the part of Long Chim to locate itself almost next door to Speedboat Bar. The latter is fronted by chef Luke Farrell and backed by the increasingly ubiquitous (and highly successful) JKS team. However, in the Long Chim corner stands David Thompson, a chef who has probably done more for Thai food in the UK than any other. While a city like London clearly does have room for both venues, diners only have so many pounds in their wallets and finite free evenings. Were it a direct competition, this reviewer knows where he would prefer to spend his money.

How do you make a restaurant both cool and of its place? One simple answer is to involve the Sethi brothers. Their JKS Group is behind many of London’s perennially on-trend restaurants. Despite their Indian roots, the team has done it again, taking the former venue of Xu and turning it Thai. Our recent visit to Speedboat was a marked success; a happening vibe with some superb food to boot.  

When it comes to restaurants it seems as if the JKS Group, pioneers of Gymkhana, Hoppers, Bao and many more, has a Midas touch. Despite their venues representing cuisines from a range of different Asian countries, there is no let up in quality. Each combines great food and ambience; a winning combination for sure, if you can achieve it. Plaza represents their take on Thai. It is very good.