It was not the most auspicious of starts. When my dining comrade and I descended on Bellazul it was pouring with rain. We arrived soaked. Welcome to England in April. It’s about as far from the Mediterranean as one could imagine. Open only for two months, Bellazul has the laudable intention of transporting diners to the sunnier climes of southern Europe. The venture is well-intentioned but does not totally succeed.
If New Quebec Street in Marylebone were my local high street, then I would be delighted. Luckily it is close to where your reviewer both lives and works. Zayna has been a long-standing favourite for curry. There’s also a great wine shop, a fishmonger and more. In addition, Boxcar is located on this street. Open since 2017, Gourmand Gunno corrected a long-standing anomaly by visiting it recently. Billed as a ‘neighbourhood restaurant’, it certainly constitutes a wonderful addition to the street, for both food and vibe.
From a modest café that opened over a hundred years ago, to a Michelin-starred celebrity hang-out, the history of the Ivy has been both varied and colourful. The brand remains an enduring one in the culinary world despite having opened Ivy spin-offs across the country, in towns such as Guildford. Its most recent venture has been to create an Asian sub-brand. Trading partly on its name, the ethos at Ivy Asia is full-on decadence with decent enough food to match.
A visit to Horma Ondo is an experience. Take in the views, enjoy the food and wine. This is the sort of place where one could comfortably spend a whole day. It’s located in the hills outside Bilbao and easy to miss if one does not know the way. Fortunately my host was a local to the area and successfully navigated the winding road up to the venue. Once there, we relaxed and enjoyed the restaurant to the full.
Reviewers that see any restaurant describe itself as “eclectic” have good reason – often through bitter prior experience – to be sceptical. When your venue has an absurdly pretentious name and is located on an expensive street in Mayfair, then the trepidation should mount further. MiMi, named with yet more absurdity in homage to a fictional empress who travels across China, is however worth a visit. There is substance behind the show.
If anyone is going to make German food cool in Britain, then it would likely be the D&D group. Their German Gymnasium restaurant in London has become a deserved destination venue (last visited by this reviewer in December) built around the whole experience – building, food and ambience. They’ve recently taken the same formula to Bristol, where Klosterhaus represents a novel addition to the city’s burgeoning food scene.
Chandos Road, in Bristol’s Redland area, has become one of the city’s culinary destinations. Nearby Wilks boasts a Michelin star and I loved my visit to Wilsons last year. Boutique seems to be the unifying principle behind all these restaurants, working on the premise of small and intimate equals good. This is the angle pursued too by Otira, and while there were several notable positives, it was hard to escape the idea that its owners were perhaps simply just trying too hard. Thought of another way, if you asked most people – regardless of their culinary bent – what Argentinean tapas and rustic New Zealand cooking had in common – then the answer would probably be something along the lines of ‘very little.’ This hasn’t stopped the proprietors of Otira from trying to cram the above two concepts into one venue.
Bristol has seen quite a redevelopment of its dockyard area in recent years and Bertha's comprises one of a group of relatively new dining outlets located just beyond the M-Shed. Decorated in bright hues, the place sets itself up as a fun, family-friendly sort of venue. Or at least this was our view. The menu, however, suggested a severe deviation from this proposition, so much so that even the adults struggled with some of the pizza options. Message to Bertha's: keep it simple...
