British, Cardiff
Alex Gunz
Gorse: Cardiff’s star

It is very rare for any restaurant to gain a Michelin star within less than a year of opening. It’s even rarer in Cardiff. Tom Waters and his team have, however, done so – at Gorse. The Welsh capital now has its first starred venue. The recognition is deserved, as a recent visit confirmed.

Gorse: Cardiff’s star
Fusion, Japanese-influenced, Mexican, Peruvian, Paddington
Alex Gunz
Ayllu: On the right track

In the culinary desert that is Paddington Basin, Ayllu offers a rare bright spot. Even if not quite yet the finished product, the venue is on the right track. The premise of ‘affordable fine dining’ – the restaurant’s self-defined pitch – is a laudable one. Go, if not for the food and service, then certainly for the atmosphere

Ayllu: On the right track
Italian, Piemonte
Alex Gunz
On beyond truffle: next level dining in ...

A visit to La Rei Natura was one of the most memorable your author has experienced anywhere recently. Sure, truffle was in abundance, but chef Michelangelo Mammoliti showcased a master class in daring to be different. His restaurant’s two Michelin stars were richly deserved. At the age of 40, he may not be at the peak of his culinary excellence yet – and a third star could be imminent.

On beyond truffle: next level dining in Piemonte
Spanish, Shoreditch
Alex Gunz
Legado: Sweet dreams are not made of this

Anyone who eats out regularly will know that after a while all meals begin to merge into one. It takes something truly astonishing to be memorable. The suckling pig cooked by Nieves Barragán at Sabor is one of those dishes. Your reviewer still dreams of it regularly. It was therefore with excitement that he visited the chef’s second restaurant. However, if Legado is intended as Barragán’s ‘legacy’ (the word translated from Spanish), then it is a disappointing one.

Legado: Sweet dreams are not made of this
French, Oxford
Alex Gunz
Pompette: Tipsy times

In a world where dining is so often about the next hot trend, experiments with fusion and Insta-friendliness, it’s a reassuring thing of beauty to find a classic French brasserie. Located in a leafy Oxford suburb, Pompette is the sort of place where you could happily go for lunch and never leave. This is perhaps the aim of the owners, since translated, the name means ‘tipsy.’ Crack on with the wine and leave happy.

Pompette: Tipsy times

British

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The Artichoke, Old Amersham (October 2012)

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A pleasant and welcome weekend jaunt, The Artichoke proves that one does not have to be in central London in order to enjoy some of the country's finest and most innovative cuisine. More than the food and drink (of which more below), what stood out was the superb service. Our party comprised four adults and two children under the age of two.