Italian, East london
Alex Gunz
Satyrio: Hidden gem, needs polishing

In a world where first impressions count, many diners might naturally be put off Satyrio. Not only could the exterior do with a face lift, but to get there, diners must navigate liminal London. Located on Aldgate High Street, Satyrio feels likes it neither quite swanky City nor trendy Shoreditch. Step inside, however, and there is a lot – even if not everything – to like about this venue.

Satyrio: Hidden gem, needs polishing
Spanish, Shoreditch
Alex Gunz
Sagardi: Wasted potential

Your reviewer really wanted to like Sagardi. He has been visiting the Basque region for over 20 years, had one of his best meals of 2024 there and fell in love with Ibai when it opened in London last June. Fronted by a chef from the region and with other successful Sagardi branches around the world, there was so much to like on paper. Walk into the Shoreditch venue and you will be wowed on first impressions. We were let down though by both food and service.

Sagardi: Wasted potential
Indian, West Hampstead
Alex Gunz
Colaba: Well-sated, but poorly served

Every neighbourhood should have a good Indian restaurant. Colaba ought to be West Hampstead’s. Named after a district of Mumbai, its quality of cooking would put it close Dishoom. However, our quartet left Colaba feeling severely underwhelmed by its service. Improve this and the venue could be a local star.

Colaba: Well-sated, but poorly served
Spanish, Covent Garden
Alex Gunz
Barrafina: A love story, still going strong

“Because it’s cooked with love” was the answer given by our garrulous host when asked what made Barrafina’s tortilla better than those of its rivals. Such a response may sound trite or flippant. However, it serves as a perfect expression for Barrafina’s cooking. 18 years’ on from when the first branch opened and now up to 5 outlets, it was abundantly evident to both your reviewer and his dining comrade on a recent visit to the Covent Garden site that this love story remains very much alive.

Barrafina: A love story, still going strong
Alex Gunz
Kinsale and surrounds: a corking time in ...

Colour is the first thing you notice when flying into Cork in Ireland’s south and then driving west. It’s like seeing forty shades of green, as our host for the weekend put it. Beyond the stunning countryside, there’s the coastline; the blue of the Atlantic that stretches from here across to America. The locals are rightly proud of the scenery. Working with and respecting both land and sea informs the approach to cooking in County Cork. The holy trinity of local, seasonable and sustainable features strongly. Almost all we ate was delicious too.

Kinsale and surrounds: a corking time in southwest Ireland

Italian

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Cecconi: Timeless (March 2017)

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Like the cliché about buses, it had been nine months since I had last visited Cecconi and yet coincidence led to me making two visits within 72 hours. Both a lunch and a breakfast visit here confirmed to me why Cecconi remains one of the best restaurants in London: its coolness is effortless and so visiting here is always enjoyable; regardless of what else may be on-trend in London, Cecconi remains timeless.

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Locanda Locatelli: Still on top form (February 2017)

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In the debate about what may be the best formal Italian restaurant in London, I have consistently made the case for Locanda Locatelli. It was therefore highly pleasing to revisit it for the first time in three years (during which time the décor has received a minor makeover) and find that the very high standards for which Locanda is duly renowned are showing no signs of slipping. 

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The Red Pepper: A Little Venice institution (November 2013)

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A Little Venice institution, the Red Pepper has been delivering consistently good food in the fifteen years I have been visiting the restaurant. While there have been several changes in both management (the current team, led by the charismatic Lara, is a definite success) and décor, the basic formula has remained unaltered.

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C London (October 2013)

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Clearly C-London must be doing something right since the place was packed on the weekday lunchtime when I recently visited the restaurant. Maybe it’s just that people still want to be seen here, but even if C-London was in the vanguard of ‘destination restaurants’ some years ago, it seems difficult to believe that it has been able to sustain this mantle.