Tom Sellars has been a name to watch in the restaurant industry for some time. Few have sufficient talent to open their first restaurant at the age of 26. To then go on and garner two Michelin stars is an impressive feat. Dovetale, located at the heart of the 1 Hotel in Mayfair, represents the next chapter in his story. Throughout, there has been a consistent emphasis on combining class with playfulness. Both were on show at our recent visit.
Few will lament the demise of the rather incongruous Holiday Inn hotel that occupied a prime spot at the lower end of Berkeley Street close to the Ritz. In its place comes the first UK opening of an outlet from the 1 Hotel group, a self-defined ‘luxury lifestyle hotel brand’ which began life in Miami. They’re big on sustainability, as is evident from the London venue, which apparently features 1300 plants, shrubs and trees across its plot. Living walls are a big feature too. Dining venues within hotels can often fall flat, lacking in atmosphere, full of guests using them as a means to an end. Dovetale feels very different, especially if you can – as we did – sit on the outside terrace. Beyond its greenery and emphasis on bespoke wood finishings, the restaurant comprises an outlet of opulent calm, a million metaphorical miles from the hubbub of Mayfair.
Here is where Tom Sellars plies his trade. Dovetale represents a maturing of his process. After the flamboyant quirkiness of Restaurant Story, within the 1 Hotel, the team goes back to basics, taking European classics and reimagining them with a few twists. Colour and flavour feature strongly. Inevitably, so does sustainability, with an emphasis on local ingredients wherever possible (English Burrata on a menu was a first for me). Diners get to chose from around half a dozen starters and mains, with additional options available from a raw bar and via a grill. Pricing is not cheap, but consistent with other nearby venues.
Two takeaways stood out for this reviewer. First, the genuine friendliness and enthusiasm of all the staff we encountered. It’s a tricky act to find good service, especially people who can read guests well and strike the appropriate balance of professionalism and informality. Next, the cooking was to such a standard that I am still savouring the dishes 24 hours on from eating them. My dining comrade and I shared two starters – a guinea fowl and lardo terrine, and a scallop dish. Presentation, arguably, scored more highly on the former, but taste sensation undoubtedly won out on the latter. It was a genius touch to pair the scallops (from Orkney) with an Amalfi lemon and oil dressing. The zing of the citrus had a length and depth to it that elevated the whole dish. Mains pleased highly. A traditional take on salmon with Hollandaise was reinterpreted by adding a thoughtful citrus twist – this time grapefruit – to the sauce and topping the dish with some crispy seaweed. What can sometimes feel a touch dull and stodgy, was light and subtle in the hands of Sellars. Similarly, my comrade’s Dover Sole Veronique – pictured – was cleverly delivered. Here, the fish was filleted before being stuffed with a scallop and tarragon mousse. It was artfully accompanied by roasted cauliflower and finished with tarragon oil. Lots to like. There was no room for desserts, but a beautiful box of multi-coloured chocolate balls, reminiscent of a child’s game, was presented to us at closing. We were asked to select one each to pair with our hot drinks. A nice touch. We passed on alcohol, but a brief perusal of the wine list looks promising. Cocktails are, apparently, worth a try too. A peak into the bar on the way certainly suggested that this is a place where many an evening of both drinking and eating could be comfortably spent.