Viewed objectively, if part of the reason behind eating out is being able to choose ‘something different’ from a potentially inventive and intriguing menu, then surely a restaurant offering just three choices must be destined to struggle?
Bombay Palace: Great food, but terrible service (November 2013)
Drake’s Tabanco (November 2013)
The Red Pepper: A Little Venice institution (November 2013)
A Little Venice institution, the Red Pepper has been delivering consistently good food in the fifteen years I have been visiting the restaurant. While there have been several changes in both management (the current team, led by the charismatic Lara, is a definite success) and décor, the basic formula has remained unaltered.
Hawksmoor Guildhall (October 2013)
It is relatively rare for restaurant groups to be able to expand successfully, particularly without risking dilution either to their brand or concept. In the case of Hawksmoor, full credit to the team. I had enjoyed visiting their Seven Dials restaurant earlier in the year, and a recent lunch at the Guildhall location showed every evidence of consistent delivery.
C London (October 2013)
Clearly C-London must be doing something right since the place was packed on the weekday lunchtime when I recently visited the restaurant. Maybe it’s just that people still want to be seen here, but even if C-London was in the vanguard of ‘destination restaurants’ some years ago, it seems difficult to believe that it has been able to sustain this mantle.
Ikeda: Good food, but not cheap (October 2013)
Diners in London in search of authentic Japanese food and service have it good in Mayfair. Ikeda can comfortably hold its own against the likes of Sakana-Tei (Maddox Street) or Kiku (Half Moon Street) among others. If there is a common factor across these restaurants, it is that they – like much of Japanese culture – are discreet and under-stated.
Arbutus: Best of British (October 2013)
On a wet and rainy night in October, there were few more comforting places to be than Arbutus. I had eaten several lunches here over the years, but this was the first time I had enjoyed dinner at the restaurant and it seemed fitting that my guest for the evening was an Italian, keen to assess the London dining scene and gain an insight into the best of British cooking/ produce.
Friends Restaurant, Pinner: When in suburbia (September 2013)
Cooper’s Arms Dining Room (September 2013)
Al Duca (September 2013)
Madsen (September 2013)
A festive set menu with a large group including some locals was both the best and the worst way to experience Madsen, a Scandinavian restaurant in South Kensington. On the positive side, our group certainly created its own atmosphere, the alcohol (including Acquavit, a not unpleasant Swedish spirit) flowed liberally and a good time was had by one and all.
Bocca di Lupo (September 2013)
Brasserie Zedel (August 2013)
The Fishes (August 2013)
Gilgamesh (August 2013)
Olivomare: Full marks for food, but... (August 2013)
Wright Brothers (August 2013)
I knew I had heard the name Wright Brothers (beyond clearly the famous aviation pair) somewhere and it was an unexpected pleasure to lunch recently at their Soho restaurant. Their original success stems from the siblings’ iconic establishment in Borough Market and the enterprise now comprises not only this venture and the one in Soho, but also a pub in Cornwall and a catering business.
Maze Grill: Not aMAZing (August 2013)
A visitor from out of town resulted in an impromptu lunch at Maze earlier this week. As we approached our destination, our guest raised the conversational topic of how so many restaurants managed to survive in London, a city he only passed through around once a year, but where he noticed new openings on each occasion.

