Have you ever had that feeling when everything was going swimmingly well and then, just when you least expected it, the rug was pulled abruptly and uncomfortably from under your feet? The experience of dining at Clare Smyth’s second London restaurant – open for only two months, as we were regularly reminded – felt unfortunately like this.
Elystan Street: Elygant
What does a chef with two Michelin stars do, especially if they don’t want a third one? Simple. Go back to basics and open a neighbourhood restaurant, albeit in the rarefied locale of Chelsea. Of course, it helps if you’re Phil Howard. Within a year of Elystan Street opening in 2016, it had become one of the hottest tickets and gained a mere single star from the Michelin inspectors. The venue’s held it ever since and based on your reviewer’s recent visit, it is fully deserved.
Claude Bosi at Bibendum: Slow puncture
Kahani: Incomplete story
Britain’s love affair with curry is well-documented and remains unabated. Restaurateurs therefore assume that it is a fairly safe bet opening yet more high-end Indian venues in swanky parts of London. Onto the scene late last year came Kahani – Hindi for story – backed by a top chef, formerly of Tamarind fame.



