New York, Korean, Hawaiian
Alex Gunz
New flavours in the Big Apple

Your reviewer is blessed living in London, arguably the culinary capital of the world. If any other city were to go head-to-head with it, then New York would be the most likely candidate. England’s capital boasts more Michelin-starred outlets than its North American rival, although NYC wins on the metric of stars per square mile. It also boasts more restaurants in absolute terms. However, this is not a competition…

New flavours in the Big Apple
Spanish, Mayfair
Alex Gunz
Sabor: Pork dreams are made of this

How many restaurants that have been open for over eight years can claim to have a queue of people waiting outside for them to open on a weekday lunchtime? Sabor is part of this elite club. Securing a booking at the venue is still difficult. And for good reason. Chef Nieves Barragán and her team make the best suckling pig in London.

Sabor: Pork dreams are made of this
Thai, Soho
Alex Gunz
Khao Bird: Flying high

Ask any gastrophile to list their favourite dishes and you may be some time. Although open for just three months in central Soho (the venue began life as a Borough Market pop-up), Khao Bird’s mutton fries could be one of those dishes. Diners will leave not only salivating but also dashing to return soon.

Khao Bird: Flying high
British, Chelsea
Alex Gunz
Corenucopia: Missed opportunity

Have you ever had that feeling when everything was going swimmingly well and then, just when you least expected it, the rug was pulled abruptly and uncomfortably from under your feet? The experience of dining at Clare Smyth’s second London restaurant – open for only two months, as we were regularly reminded – felt unfortunately like this.

Corenucopia: Missed opportunity
Seafood, Fish, Catalonia
Alex Gunz
La Llotja: Llots to like

With a country that has over 75% of its perimeter bordered by water, you would hope the Spanish know a thing or two about fish. Travel to almost every seaside town in the country and you can expect to find some pretty decent cooking. But how to choose? When a restaurant is recommended by a top nearby winemaker whom you respect highly and features in the Michelin guide, then that’s a good starting point.

La Llotja: Llots to like

British

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Brown’s at the Quay: Pigs and lipstick (October 2017)

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Worcester, although picturesque with its cathedral and the majestic River Severn, does not offer a lot of fine dining options. To describe Brown’s (no relation to the chain, despite some disarming similarities) as such is perhaps over-generous. It certainly punches above its weight, and represents generally poor value for money.

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Hawksmoor Borough: High standards maintained (July 2017)

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The wonderful thing about Hawksmoor is its consistency – you know you are going to get a damned fine piece of steak. Borough is the fourth of the eight-branch chain I have visited (after Air Street, Gulidhall and Seven Dials) and the standards set on previous visits were more than adequately maintained here.

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Blueprint Café: Room with a view (June 2017)

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Walk five minutes east from the tourists and Tower Bridge and you will find yourself in Shad Thames. Even to many a Londoner, there is a certain other-worldliness to this place; it speaks of history and the past, a place of secrets and undiscovered potential. Yet, it is well worth a visit. Indeed, on a sunny day in London when outside space is at a premium, a trip to the Blue Print Café (located in the London Design Museum) is a worthwhile excursion

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Hereford Road: Uninspiring (February 2017)

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I had had high hopes visiting Hereford Road, but found them mostly disappointed. Located on the site of a former butcher’s and with offal as its USP, I have been led to believe that Hereford Road might have the potential to be as west London equivalent of the ever-popular St. John

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Portland: Modern British at its best (May 2015)

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The Great Portland Street area of central London is becoming an increasingly attractive destination for lovers of good food. In addition to the successful openings of the nearby Riding House Cafe and Picture restaurants in the last couple of years, along comes (the unoriginally named) Portland.