A decade or so ago, Gordon Ramsay was, arguably, one of the most famous chefs in the UK. He has certainly been responsible for a subsequent generation of culinary luminaries such as Clare Smyth and Jason Atherton. Current consensus, however, veers to the critical for Ramsay – maybe he has lost his touch? – and when Lucky Cat opened in late 2019 (unfortunately just pre-pandemic), critics seemingly rushed to be sceptical. Sure, maybe London does not need another slightly edgy yet still very commercial pan-Asian venture (think Roka, Zuma et al), but my comrade and I were recently impressed by a lunchtime visit to Lucky Cat.
Henrock: Rockin’ the Lakes
Most visitors are drawn to the Lake District for its hiking paths and bucolic views. Don’t shout it too loudly though, but there is also an exciting gastronomic scene afoot in the region. Cumbria boasts seven restaurants with Michelin stars. Among them, Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume (in Cartmel) is arguably the most famous. While we were not quite lucky enough to pay it a visit, we did the next best thing and spent a highly enjoyable recent evening at Henrock, the chef’s latest restaurant venture in the region.
Elliot’s: On-trend done well
Say foodie to many Londoners and they may respond ‘Borough Market.’ Say on-trend districts to the same audience and many might reply ‘Hackney.’ Surprise, surprise then that the two venues operating as Elliot’s appear within the confines of… Borough Market and Hackney. Food is all sourced from the former with a strong emphasis on the fashions du jour: local and seasonal. Visit the Borough venue (as we did) and you will be confronted with exposed brickwork, mismatched fittings and a sassy kind of New York vibe. There’s natural wine too. It’s almost all too achingly cool.
The Hero of Maida: Heroic effort
Ritu: In season
Sketch: Celestial
Dining experiences do not come much better than Sketch. One almost struggles for sufficient superlatives. My dining comrade and I spent over four hours in the beautiful Grade II* Georgian townhouse which houses the venue on a recent Saturday night and felt wowed throughout. Since our previous visit in February 2019, Sketch’s fine dining room (where we spent the majority of our time) has gained a third Michelin star, making it one of only seven restaurants in the UK to hold such an honour. Success certainly hasn’t gone to its head, however. There remains the same winning combination of panache, exuberance and class.
The Seafood Bar: Plenty of Fish
The London restaurant scene is a big sea in which to fish. Similar to the real world, only the fittest survive. The Seafood Bar is a laudable concept, but whether it will endure remains to be seen. The original venture opened nine years ago in Amsterdam when a local fishmonger turned restaurateur. Now, the chain is five strong, with the London outpost opening last month. There is certainly something very Dutch (or Scandinavian) about the venue…
Gaucho: Proper steak
If you can look beyond the slightly garish and tacky cowhide furnishings, and steak is your thing, then Gaucho is a very decent option. Despite the Gaucho enterprise spanning a dozen outlets in London and four around the rest of the UK, it was a first for Gourmand Gunno to visit the Leeds branch and pen a review.
Parlour: My space
Look up the word parlour in the dictionary and you will get two definitions: first, as a sitting room in a private house; next, as a room in a public building for receiving guests. It is perhaps not accidental then that Parlour, an on-trend British restaurant in central north west London, fulfils both these terms. Diners are made to feel very welcome; spending time at this venue is a bit like being in a good friend’s house.
The Oak Room at Barnett Hill: No sun, no stars
A weekend break in August to a luxury hotel in the Surrey Hills ought to be the stuff of dreams. Barnett Hill, an impressive Queen Anne-style property near Wonersh, is a beautiful building with lovely grounds and excellent walking options nearby. While it was not the fault of the property that the British weather impeded full enjoyment of the outdoor facilities, blame certainly must lie with the hotel for the underwhelming dining experiences that characterised our stay.
Rum Kitchen: Cue commercialised Caribbean cooking
Everyone likes a party, right? Few come bigger than Carnival, a celebration of all things West Indian in London’s Notting Hill every August. It’s a great vibe and your reviewer, who lives locally, has been going on an off for the last two decades. What the Rum Kitchen offers is not a homage to Carnival – as their website might seem to suggest – but a commercialisation of the Caribbean experience. If it’s an informal party vibe you’re after at a competitive price, then Rum Kitchen is for you. However, diners hoping for authentic Caribbean food will be sorely disappointed.
Ave Mario: Big, bold and borderline brilliant
If you have a winning formula, then why change it? Going to Ave Mario is about much more than having a meal; rather, it’s an experience. Your reviewer cannot recall the last time he visited a restaurant anywhere in London on a weekday lunchtime where many of the diners had dressed up as if for a night out…
Normah’s: Malaysia mostly marvels
Blink and you might miss it. In order to get to Normah’s, visitors are forced to navigate through the warrens of the insalubrious Queensway Market, an eclectic mix of clothes shops, food stores and restaurants. Tucked away in the south west corner is Normah’s. Founded in 2015 by the eponymous, Normah Abd Hamid, her restaurant in an authentic insight into Malaysian cuisine, located in London W2.
The Waterway: Room for improvement
The Waterway is a marked improvement on its predecessor, a grim pub called The Paddington Stop. It benefits from wonderful canalside views (assuming you don’t look the other way at the housing estate) but its food and drink experience was quite mixed. There’s a lot of potential. but also clear room for improvement.
Claude Bosi at Bibendum: Slow puncture
Enish: A taste of Nigeria
Do you know your egusi from your abula? This reviewer certainly didn’t and had only once previously tried anything close to Nigerian food. That was almost four years ago in an over-priced and far from authentic restaurant in St James. Fortunately, this gap in Gourmand Gunno’s culinary knowledge was recently rectified after the kind offer of a Nigerian friend to take me to his ‘local’ in the far reaches of south east London. It’s certainly worth the ten-minute train ride to Lewisham from London Bridge for a taste of what Nigeria has to offer.
Noble Rot Soho: Post-Hussar hurrah
The shoes of the Gay Hussar are big ones in which to step. Noble Rot’s second venture, located on the same site as this former London establishment, nonetheless do the job admirably. Homage to the Hussar is evident, from the artistic triptych of Soho life that adorns one wall on the first floor dining room through to a few original menu items that remain, albeit somewhat reinterpreted. After the success of their original Fitzrovia venture, the Noble Rot team have imposed their clear stamp in Soho.
Bocconcino: La dolce vita, bling edition
Archipelago: From alpaca to zebra, and more
Much (if not all) of the fun of being a restaurant reviewer is having novel experiences. It was therefore quite anomalous that Gourmand Gunno had never paid a visit to Archipelago until earlier this week. The venue has been a fixture in Fitzrovia for over twenty years and has a very clear mandate: to “explore the exotic.” From alpaca to zebra, Archipelago dishes up options that are far from mainstream, but perhaps ought to be more so.
SOLA: Soul fusion
How often do diners – especially seasoned sceptics such as your reviewer – come out of restaurants truly wowed by a novel experience? It’s interesting that SOLA shares much in common with KOL . Beyond both having short and memorable names – in the case of this venue’s, it is an abbreviated portmanteau of Soho and Los Angeles – each marries successfully high-end dining in an informal setting. Whereas KOL brings proper Mexican food to London for arguably the first time, SOLA does similar with Californian cuisine.