A decade or so ago, Gordon Ramsay was, arguably, one of the most famous chefs in the UK. He has certainly been responsible for a subsequent generation of culinary luminaries such as Clare Smyth and Jason Atherton. Current consensus, however, veers to the critical for Ramsay – maybe he has lost his touch? – and when Lucky Cat opened in late 2019 (unfortunately just pre-pandemic), critics seemingly rushed to be sceptical. Sure, maybe London does not need another slightly edgy yet still very commercial pan-Asian venture (think Roka, Zuma et al), but my comrade and I were recently impressed by a lunchtime visit to Lucky Cat.
Sketch: Celestial
Dining experiences do not come much better than Sketch. One almost struggles for sufficient superlatives. My dining comrade and I spent over four hours in the beautiful Grade II* Georgian townhouse which houses the venue on a recent Saturday night and felt wowed throughout. Since our previous visit in February 2019, Sketch’s fine dining room (where we spent the majority of our time) has gained a third Michelin star, making it one of only seven restaurants in the UK to hold such an honour. Success certainly hasn’t gone to its head, however. There remains the same winning combination of panache, exuberance and class.
Bocconcino: La dolce vita, bling edition
Le Boudin Blanc: Dreaming of Paris
With travel to Paris still problematic, what to do if you want old school French grub? Even if it has a certain charm of its own, Mayfair’s Shepherds Market will never be the Rive Gauche, but Le Boudin Blanc gives you a little taste of what being in France could be like. The restaurant is a Mayfair establishment, having been open for almost 30 years…
Fallow: Rich pickings
The dictionary says that the term ‘fallow’ means farmland that has been ploughed and harrowed but is then left for a period without being sown in order to restore its fertility and avoid surplus production. Although an ancient concept, it also has a wonderfully modern resonance, according well with all things sustainable. Fallow, one of the hottest new openings of 2020, takes this idea as its guiding principle and successfully pulls off the act of being both a right-on and very cool venue.
Amazonico: Expensive fun
How seriously can you take any restaurant that claims to take guests “on a sensory journey along the Amazon river and through Latin America?” You certainly can’t fault Amazonico for its desire to make a splash on the London dining scene. My recent visit there was everything I expected: big on bling and pricing at Mayfair levels. However, you get what you pay for and the quality of the cooking surprised positively to the upside…
Taka: Substance and showmanship
The Taka concept here is to take classic Japanese cooking principles and marry them with locally sourced British ingredients. A more cynical interpretation might be that it’s trying to appeal to as broad a target market as possible. The décor feels distinctly Japanese but the vibe is more London if you actually focus on what you’re eating, then it’s mostly pretty damned good....
Scott’s: Possibly the best fish in London
Tradition and heritage are all well and good, but just because something worked in 1851 doesn’t mean it still will in 2020. It is therefore highly reassuring to see Scott’s continuing to deliver. It may have come a long way from its roots as an oyster warehouse, while the restaurant proper has migrated upwards from Haymarket to Mayfair, but the title of this review says it all: Scott’s, arguably, does the best fish in London.
La Petite Maison: Nice to be back
For those who can’t or don’t want to get on a plane and head to Nice at present, Nice can come to you. Since its opening in 2007, La Petite Maison has been doing just one thing: serving consistently good Mediterranean food. Neither the credit crisis nor COVID has stopped it in its tracks. You won’t eat cheaply here, but you will undoubtedly eat well.
Hush: Keep it quiet
Hush represented a great place to begin the experiment of dining in the COVID-19 era. The venue remains a well-kept secret, tucked away in a discreet Mayfair courtyard. It was mostly business as normal at the restaurant. Hush has been around for over 20 years simply because it has continued to deliver consistently good - even if far from ground-breaking - food….
Corrigan’s: Full circle
Bentley’s: Still shucking good
For any restaurant to have endured in London for more than 100 years, it must be doing something right. Bentley’s track record dates to 1916. A recent visit served as a reminder that the venue is still going strong, having arguably been reinvigorated since Richard Corrigan has been at the helm. Consider a visit here an experience, as much for the people-watching as for the food.
Onima: Mykonos comes to Mayfair? I think not
Kanishka: Give it a year…
Restaurants come and go in London, with around half shutting within a year of opening. I fear Kanishka may well fall into this category. Maybe I was negatively prejudiced towards the venue, having never rated chef Atul Kochhhar’s previous Benares venture, but I have no specific desire to return to Kanishka. The décor felt brash, the vibe wrong, and the food not quite good enough to justify the inflated price tags.
Sketch: Top of its league
The title says it all. Sketch may have been open since 2003 but it deservedly remains one of the best fine dining locations in London, its two Michelin stars thoroughly merited. A meal in its Lecture Room & Library was my culinary highlight of 2018, and a return visit there on a recent Saturday night reinforced how Sketch could also be in contention for the 2019 award.
Sabor: Taste the difference
Hide: Overrated
Reputation and hype combined often breed excess expectation. At Hide, take a highly talented chef, an alleged £20m investment, a wine joint venture with nearby Hedonism and anticipation levels can quickly become stratospheric. Gain a Michelin star within a year of opening and you’re in a whole different galaxy. Reviewers need to be sceptical by nature, but not since Sexy Fish have I been so underwhelmed by a London venue.
Hawksmoor Air Street: Winning formula, every time
Being a regular reviewer of restaurants has many privileges, but a combination of coincidence and premeditation has seen me visit three different Hawksmoor locations across London in the last two months. Regardless of venue (Air Street, Seven Dials and Spitalfields, in reverse chronological order), the formula has been not only remarkably consistent but also hugely successful. Put simply, this is about good meat in a highly convivial atmosphere.
Wild Honey: Sweet remains the honey
The doors of Wild Honey have been open for 11 years during which time I have been a regular visitor. A recent lunchtime return visit to the venue reminded me just how good this place is and why it continues to pull in the crowds. Put simply, what Wild Honey does is offer impressively good comfort food in a lovely venue, albeit at Mayfair prices.
Ristorante Frescobaldi: In it for the long-run
The Frescobaldi’s have a long and glorious history, stretching back over 700 years. Throughout wars, changes in government and more, the family has continued to thrive, growing food and making wine in Tuscany. Their first restaurant offering opened in London in 2014. That it has survived 4 years is an achievement…