Assaggi: Old school charm

Assaggi: Old school charm

Gourmand Gunno has had a long-held mantra that bad service trumps good food. Every time. What about the inverse? He and his long-suffering vegetarian dining comrade recently visited Assaggi, a Notting Hill Italian stalwart. While the venue gained a two-out-of-three success rate (just about) on my trio of dishes, my comrade’s culinary score was a big round zero. A return visit would, however, be in order. Full marks to Assaggi for atmosphere, service and drinks, even if the kitchen could do with upping its game.

Schanz: Germany’s best?

Schanz: Germany’s best?

Say German cuisine to most people and the image that will likely form is one of sausage, served with some form of dense starch, either bread or potatoes. Say fine German dining and you might get a wry smile, raised eyebrows or the suggestion that you’re talking wurst (as the locals would say). Consult the Michelin guide though, and what it shows is that Germany commands ten restaurants with three Michelin stars, a comparable number to the UK (eight), given its larger population. Our group was lucky enough to visit Schanz, one of Germany’s most-garlanded restaurants, last week. We came away mostly wowed.

Humo: Style versus substance

Humo: Style versus substance

There was one particular moment at Humo when your reviewer had to struggle hard to keep a straight face. The server was introducing our trout and caviar starter. He highlighted how the trout had enjoyed its life in a river in Hampshire before meeting its death in an Ike-Jine Japanese fashion which is supposed to minimise pain by paralysing the nervous system. Conveniently for diners, it also preserves the quality of the fish fat. Said trout is then smoked over oak. It is next topped with 3-month aged caviar, which is stored at exactly minus one degree in order to promote freshness. Perhaps it was the earnestness of the description. Maybe it was the length of time it took. Sure, we all want to be entertained when we go out – and have no doubt, there is no shortage of quality on show at Humo – but it was hard to escape the notion that the venue just took itself a little bit too seriously.

Akub: Middle Eastern mellow

Akub: Middle Eastern mellow

There is something delightful about stepping one block away from any busy thoroughfare and finding yourself almost in a different place. Notting Hill’s Uxbridge Street has an almost olde worlde feel to it. It’s certainly an antidote to the tourist-heavy Portobello Road nearby. Being off the beaten track seems an appropriate setting for Akub, a new Middle Eastern restaurant, where Fadi Kattan and his team are cooking up a quiet revolution.

St John: Meat comes to Marylebone

St John: Meat comes to Marylebone

1994 might seem an age ago. At the time, your reviewer was just beginning university and rarely visited a restaurant unless benevolent relatives were paying. It was also the year when Fergus Henderson and his team created a culinary revolution when they opened the original St John restaurant in Smithfield Market. With it came the pioneering concept of ‘nose-to-tail’ cooking. This was (and remains) the place to go for offal. It is pleasing that a second St John venture has recently opened in Marylebone. Based on a recent visit, it can be every bit as good as the first.

Speedboat: Thai-geist

Speedboat: Thai-geist

How do you make a restaurant both cool and of its place? One simple answer is to involve the Sethi brothers. Their JKS Group is behind many of London’s perennially on-trend restaurants. Despite their Indian roots, the team has done it again, taking the former venue of Xu and turning it Thai. Our recent visit to Speedboat was a marked success; a happening vibe with some superb food to boot.  

Mielcke & Hurtigkarl: Daring to be different

Mielcke & Hurtigkarl: Daring to be different

Copenhagen does not lack for outstanding eating, garlanded chefs or Michelin stars. Anyone who is interested in food and has not heard of Noma must probably have been living in a cave for the last decade. The challenge for any chef in Denmark’s capital city is to do something genuinely noteworthy, that guests will remember fondly, start talking about and just might become the next big thing. Mielcke & Hurtigkarl is not new – it first opened in 2008 – and does benefit from being housed in a stunning 17th century building, but it represents one of the most exciting things happening in Copenhagen cooking currently.

Caia: Chameleon

Caia: Chameleon

Have no doubt, Caia is cool. Certainly if you’re young and trendy, but even your mid-40s reviewer could appreciate its zeitgeist. Maybe it’s the perfect 2020s venue; a mix of cocktail bar, restaurant and music lounge cum nightclub. While it was hard to fault the atmosphere, this is not a place that lends itself naturally to dining. Food is just part of the experience. A future visit would likely see your reviewer having a pre-dinner drink here and then moving on elsewhere to dine, perhaps even to next door Maramia.

Honey & Co: Sweet as…

Honey & Co: Sweet as…

Don’t break a winning formula is a useful principle. It’s one adhered to by the chefs at Honey & Co. Now in its second location (on Lambs Conduit Street, opposite Noble Rot), everything that made the original a success has been replicated here, in a larger and more grown-up setting. With the two owners hailing from Israel and having both worked under Yotam Ottolenghi during their careers, diners can rest assured that they will clearly be in good hands.

Abeno: Serendipity, Japanese-style

Abeno: Serendipity, Japanese-style

It’s rare for sceptical restaurant reviewers such as your author to be positively surprised by totally new culinary experiences. It’s even rarer for them to occur in a venue situated minutes from the British Museum in tourist-heavy central London that you could easily walk past without noticing. Abeno, which bills itself as “Europe’s original specialist okonomi-yaki restaurant” proves that you should not judge restaurants by either their location or exterior. Come visit and be positively surprised.

Socca: The sun always shines here

Socca: The sun always shines here

Step into Socca and you can almost kid yourself you might be in the Mediterranean. Sure, no expense has been spared at this venue (as is evidenced by its prices), but it is testament to the team that they have been able to create a warming vibe at Socca, from décor to ambience via its food. Think of Socca as an updated take on La Petite Maison, taking the culinary genius of Claude Bosi and the design aesthetic of Samyukta Nair (Koyn, Jamavar etc.). It has all the hallmarks of a Mayfair classic in the making.

Ekstedt at the Yard: Smoke and Mirrors

Ekstedt at the Yard: Smoke and Mirrors

Eating out should be fun, right? Even better when chefs push boundaries and servers present their offerings with passion. It sounds so easy in principle, and I have no doubt that the eponymous chef behind this venture has all the above in mind. While there were flashes of absolute brilliance at Ekstedt, there were also moments when eating at this venue felt almost as if it were a chore. Three hours of food with a £145 bill per person (without considering drinks or service) constitutes a major commitment. Even if conversation with my dining comrade for the evening was superb, our time and money could arguably have been better spent elsewhere.

Ember Yard: Still smokin’

Ember Yard: Still smokin’

London restaurant goers have notoriously short attention spans and nowhere more so than in Soho. Barely a week seems to go by without some new venue opening in search of the next cool thing. The fact that Ember Yard has been going for almost a decade speaks to its success. Your reviewer’s first visit in seven years served as a reminder that if you have a winning formula, then don’t try and change it.

Bubala: Oh, my darling (or maybe not) – Soho edition

Bubala: Oh, my darling (or maybe not) – Soho edition

One of your reviewer’s favourite dining experiences of 2022 was a visit to the original Bubala, located on the Commercial Road in Shoreditch. I noted then that stepping inside was “almost as if one were in Tel Aviv.” Sadly Bubala’s second outlet, in Soho, did not quite replicate the same vibe. Like an upstart cheeky younger brother, Bubala Soho felt almost as if it was trying too hard. Sure, the food was once again lovely, the attitude less so.

Maresco: A Scottish-Spanish love affair

Maresco: A Scottish-Spanish love affair

Portmanteaus are wonderful things. Take two words, combine them and you’ve created a brand new one, perhaps even a concept too. This is exactly what Scot Stephen Lironi has done at Maresco, a new Spanish venue in the heart of Soho. The clue is in the name: ‘mar’ in recognition of the sea and ‘esco’, from escocia, as in a homage to Scotland. Beyond mere gimmickry, Maresco is a place with serious culinary intentions.

Luca: Lots to like

Luca: Lots to like

When you’re still salivating over a dish three days after you ate it, then you know it’s been a great dining experience. Luca was always likely to be a success given it is the second venture from Isaac McHale of Clove Club fame. The story here is about classy contemporary food, paying clear homage to Italy but using primarily British ingredients.

Paradise: On the way there

Paradise: On the way there

Say the word paradise to most people and they envisage some sort of idyll. Think of it as an end point, or something we all strive towards. For any restaurateur to choose this term for their venue is a bold move. Culinary paradise for me would not specifically be an opportunity to dine at a small on-trend Sri Lankan venue in Soho, although there was much to like about this restaurant.

Jam Delish: Not quite jammin’

Jam Delish: Not quite jammin’

London doesn’t lack for brave new restaurant concepts. However, it’s a Hobbesian world, sufficiently short, nasty and brutish that about half of all restaurant openings in the city shut within a year. You can blame Brexit, inflation, changing fashions, or all/none of the above, but the truth is stark. If your reviewer were a betting person, then he would put Jam Delish in the unlucky category.

Saltie Girl: Best of Boston brought to Britain

Saltie Girl: Best of Boston brought to Britain

One of your reviewer’s fondest culinary experiences of last year was sitting in the Spring sunshine in Boston’s Back Bay district and eating a wonderful composition of charred octopus served with spicy nduja and fledgling potatoes. The venue in question was cult seafood outlet, Saltie Girl. Good news for Londoners: the group’s third venue (number two is in LA) opened in London late last year. Your reviewer liked it so much, he visited twice in a week.

Muse: Inspired, mostly

Muse: Inspired, mostly

In restaurant circles it would be a fair question to ask: having been the youngest chef ever to be awarded two Michelin stars (at the age of 26), where do you go from here? The career of Tom Aikens has certainly not been short of adventure. What diners can experience at Muse is a chef – now in his 50s – clearly having fun and being willing to push boundaries, even if overall execution was not always perfect